Jesse Ayala writes from Eygpt.

Dear Family and Friends,

Wow does time fly by. As I enter into my final week in Cairo, I just
thought that I should give a update to keep people posted on my
ongoing adventure.

After trekking across Belgium, the Netherlands, France, Jordan and
Upper Egypt, I returned to Cairo at the end of January in search of a
new home in Cairo. After a long search I upgraded to a spacious
gilded flat on Mohammed Mahzar Pahsa street on the north-side of the
isle of Zamalek. The three bed-room flat was split between myself, my
frend Anna from UW, a guy named Sami from New Jersey who studies at GW
in Washington DC and a random expat named Jason who fled his hometown
of Detroit in search of better opportunities abroad. Together with our
broken arabic, we managed to make friend with out landlord Atif (a 50
something Egyptian man with an astonishing wardrobe of furs,silks and
blazers galore) as well as the other residents and shop owners around
the block.

In addition to developing relationships with the locals, I also
entertained a myriad of guests from both university and high school.
Since most of them were abroad, meeting up with familiar faces was
quite easy and extremely pleasant to see old faces in my new home.
Arriving in Cairo with my friend Jake, he helped me settle back into
the city while I showed him the ins and outs of the chaotic Cairo.
Right as Jake departed for a semester in Turkey, Carter arrived from
Turkey to spend three weeks with us while he was enrolled in an Arabic
program in Dokki. After Carters extended visit while culminated with a
heartfelt good-bye at Al-Azhar Park, Anna and I returned to Zamalek to
buckled down with the semester. `

At AUC, my time became divided between my courses, all of which were
absolutely wonderful. Of all of the classes, my favorite was my
journalism class titled: The Foreign Correspondent: Covering Conflict
in the Middle East. Taught by the former
NBC News Cairo Bureau Chief Abdullah Schileifer, the course chronicled
Schleifer's life from his days in Jerusalem, particularly 1967 when
Israel reunified the partitioned city, all the way to his role as a
producer of war documentaries covering the Lebanese Civil War and both
US Invasions in Iraq. Full of constant first hand accounts of the
history I am so interested, this class provided unprecedented personal
connection to the Middle East and a great insight into the regional
conflicts that ensue today.

After a break from vistors, the flat was bombarded first by two of
Sami's friends from New York, and then my friends Mark and Alana. Mark
(my former room mate in Madison, was spending his semester in London)
and Alana (former Project 40/40 intern of mine and future flat-mate,
studying in Nairobi) arrived from very different parts of the globe to
spend a week in Cairo. Once again, I was leading the troop to the
pyramids and beyond, showing off the wonders of this ancient city.

Going a little stir crazy in the capital, a few friends and I in mid
march made a trip to the Red Sea port of Hurghada. Situated on the
mainland coast, Hurghada is a unique mix of many different lifestyles
and ideas, yet somehow held together as one. Invested heavily before
2001, this sea port lost a lot of its financial backing in the wake of
the Bush Administration's War on Terror, marking the Middle East as
unfit for safe tourism among other things. As the years have gone by,
the city has gained back its importance and development has been
revived as more and more European tourists venture to this coastal
town. What makes Hurghada a place to see in my opinion are the
opportunities at sea. For just 15 US dollars, we were granted access
to a fully staffed, private yacht for a whole day at sea. Setting sea
in the early morning, we crisscrossed the waters stopping sporadically
for snorkeling amongst the coral reefs of the red sea. Swallowed by
schools of fish and sunlight, we docked, boarded a dingy and were off
to a tiny desert island in the middle of the sea. After spending time
in "Paradise" we returned to the shore and then back to Cairo after a
beautiful day amongst dolphins and other beautiful sea life.

As April began I was notified of my acceptance into AIESEC-AUC, a
experience very different from my AIESEC at UW, but still a valuable
experience and opportunity to meet even more arab students from all
over the region. However, right as things began so did Spring Break in
Egypt. Starting with the arrival of my friend Ross, we dashed from
site to site in Cairo and then jetted across the desert to the famed
Sinai Peninsula. Landing in Sharm, we spent two nights in the Egyptian
sea-side hotspot. Developed by the Israelis during their occupation of
the Sinai after 1967, this city is one of the most bizarre places I
have ever been. Bustling with tourists from all over Eastern Europe,
Italy and Russia it felt as though we flew to a different country.
Overwhelmed by the European spring breakers, we pushed northward to
Sharm's quieter sister Dahab.

Meaning "Gold" in Arabic, Dahab is like heaven on earth. The cool
waters of the Red Sea pushed up against the restaurants and lounge
chairs lining the coast. With a few of Saudi Arabia on a clear day to
the east, this city has developed perfectly to cater to the needs of a
vacationer in need of relaxation.

Entranced by the serenity of the city, it was difficult for us to be
ripped away from the beauty around midnight for our scheduled climb up
the revered Mount Sinai. The supposed location where God bestowed upon
Moses and humanity the 10 Commandments so long ago. Climbing the
mountain at night while customary is not the easiest feat. Lit only by
the stars above, we climbed the first half of the mountain by camel,
sporadically stopping for a sip of tea along the mud-block huts that
lined the way. When the camels could go no further, we pushed upwards
by foot, soon racing the sun as it began to rise. Then as we reached
the top, we looked out onto the fiery red mountains overcome by a haze
of blue and red as the sun peaked through and illuminated all around
us. Surrounded by the crowds of easter pilgrims and the rings of the
monastery bells, the experience was more surreal than anything.

As the Sinai adventure came to a close, Anna and I quickly repacked
our bags for the colder climate Istanbul, Turkey. In the city we
walked through the old Ottoman parts of the city spotted is a
multitude of places with unprecedented significance. The Bosporus
river, dividing Asia and Europe divides the country and the city in
two, yet unites the county as a powerful epicenter of past christian
and islamic influences.

Dismantled in the aftermath of WWII,, Turkey lost the lands that would
become the modern middle east to French and English interests in the
forms of neo-coloialism known as "mandates" aimed at developing
infrastructure to guide the new arab and jewish nations into
self-sovereigning bodies. Turkey, unlike its neighbors was permitted
to establish a self-determined government through a series of
revolutions aimed at the development of the new turkey into a
homogenous, first world nation. The reforms of Mostafa Kemal, a
leading political reformer and revolutionary and president of the
young republic aimed at mimicking European values of secularism into
the once capital of Islam. His policies implemented not too long ago
remain questioned amongst groups across the nation as Turkey attempts
to bridge the divide of the Middle East, Islam and Europe by seeking
membership in the European Union. Their desire to be internationally
recognized as a global power, regional leader and secular voice amidst
religious chaos reverberates amongst all those we came in contact
with.

One of Kemal's most disputed and radical reforms even today was the
complete disenfranchisement of the Islamic authorities in state
affairs, denouncing their legitimacy to govern. As the country
progresses on a track towards EU citizenship, the people remain
hopeful to retain their distinctive identities. Hospitable to say the
least, the Turks were decked in their finest attire, glazed in an aura
of refinement and sophistication unmet in the Middle East as far as I
have experienced. On numerous occasions, I was reminded that I should
always allow Anna to proceed, never showing her my back amongst other
tips.

As our walk continued up the bosporus into the Topaki Palace, we
walked along the Palace Gardens, now a public thoroughfare lined with
beautiful tulips, trees and statues lining the paths as Turks of all
ages danced with the beauty of the magical serenity of the city.

Approaching a gate we walked through alley ways winding with school
children and adults seeking refuge in the gardens beauty. After
stopping for a ice cream at a street stand, we continued forward to
the Hagia Sophia, the epicenter of the Byzantine Empire. Erected to
monument the Christian faith and proclaim the dominance of Eastern
Christendom, the Hagia Sophia is a masterpiece built over the
centuries reflecting the triumphs of empires past. When the Muslims
captured Istanbul, (then named Constantople, after the Emperor
Constantine who relocated the capital to this location) they converted
this place of Christian reverence into a Muslim shrine, converting the
facades into Arabic while retaining the distinctiveness of its past
beauty. Decorated with mosaics of Christian iconography topped with
Islamic design and Arabic calligraphy, the site represents the rich
history of the region, the divided identity and the beauty religion.

Walking into the museum, Anna and I felt as if we were walking into a
ballroom fit only for a king. The finest stone covered the walls,
paths and ceilings, from which hung the typical islamic chandeliers
lighting the massive hollow chamber. Due to the religious history of
the past, to make sure the site was maintained properly Ataturk pushed
for the religious monument to be registered as a national monument and
museum ending the run of worship within its halls. The desire for
worship could be fulfilled a stones throw away across the park
Turkey's most famous icon, the Blue Mosque (known officially as the
Sultan Ahmet Camii Mosque)

A triumphant call to prayer from this architectural marvel will entice
even non-believer into prayer. Topped with blue caps upon the minarets
and domes, this place of worship is the vision of islamic might.
Dominating over the Hagia Sopia, the Mosque further symbolizes the
presence of Islam along the Bosporus. After exploring outlaying
grounds of the region, we wondered about through the Grand Bazaar
ending up in a Turkish Bath, a cliche of any traveller to the land of
the Turks.

All in all the city was fantastic, almost too perfectly wonderful for
words. Of the cities in I have visited i think it is within the top 5
for beauty and entertainment.

Since Istanbul, I have buckled down to complete the semester before
the arrival of our final guests in late May. Sara, arriving from
Nairobi and Maria, arriving from Spain, both came right as the
semester evaporated before us. Splitting our time in Hurghada, Cairo
and Alexandria I had a blast with these two wonderful ladies and look
forward to an amazing last year in Madison with them.

Before returning to Madison, I have made some great plans for the
summer of 2009. As school ends, I am going to spend a week in the
desert, leaving tonight actually, and then returning to Cairo for a
few days to hopefully catch President Barack Obama as he addresses
the Egypt on June 4th from somewhere in Cairo. Then on June 6, I will
mark the end of the Cairo chapter by flying over the continent of
Europe and landing in London to visit friends and explore the UK. My
plans for the UK are not set in stone yet, but I have a tentative
outline of time in London, Oxford, Cornwall and then the northern
countryside, inshallah. After my two weeks in London, I am planning on
spending the balance of the summer in Beirut Lebanon, focusing on
Arabic and learning more about Levantine politics and culture. If
anyone is in the region and would like to meet up, please let me know
so that we can make plans and see one another.

I hope that everyone is having the most amazing time, wherever you are
in the world. Seeing the familiar faces I have seen over the past
months has made me extremely excited to return the US to see all of
you and share experiences with you.

Wishing you all the best,
Cheers,

Jesse
--
Jesse Ayala
Project 40/40: Clinton HIV/AIDS Initiative
Alumni Advisory Board Member

2010 University of Wisconsin Chancellor's Scholar

General Member : AIESEC-Madison, Wisconsin, USA
jesse.ayala.jr@gmail.com